STACEY WELDON

   

How long have you been with blurr?


I've been with blurr since I was a teenager!  Easily over 10 years.


What are your goals for climbing?


My current goals are set around the 2015 IFSC World Cup circuit.  I'm doing the full circuit this year, and I've been training my ass off.  I didn't do as well as I hoped I would at Nationals, missing finals by one spot, but it really lit a fire inside me to put together a program and train hard.  While I would be ecstatic to make a few semi-final rounds this year, I think my ultimate goal is to climb smart during each round, and to stay focused.  It's so easy to get tunnel vision in comps and miss little things.  Five minutes isn't a long time to figure out and execute a boulder problem.  With how hard the boulders are at this level you basically get one or two good attempts, and any minor mistake or misreading beta will really cost you.  Every attempt counts.
I'd also like to send my project in the Bow Valley this summer, Army Ants, 13d.


What are your current climbing plans?


This summer will be filled with traveling to world cups:  Toronto, Vail, Chongqing China, Haiyang China, and Munich Germany.  I hope to stay for some time in Munich after the World Cup to do some bouldering outside.


Who is your “hero” and why?


Definitely my little sister Vikki.  She is a bad-ass climber and skier, and just an all-around amazing person.  She is dedicated, and goes after what she wants with fire.


What do you do when you are not climbing?


When I'm not climbing I can be found working as a registered nurse at the Canmore Hospital, or at my desk studying for my Advanced Critical Care Emergency Nursing program.


Would you like to have longer reach or better hand strength?


I already have a +2 ape index., so I would have to say stronger hands.


What is your favourite climbing location?


I would have to say Squamish.  Stepping into the forest feels like walking into another world.  I'm always expecting a fairy or two to go flying by.  It's a magical place full of wonderful adventures and people.  And the biking isn't bad either!


What is your greatest accomplishment and your biggest defeat?


I think maybe my greatest accomplishment may just be how much I still love this sport after how long I have been doing it.  I'll have been climbing for 20 years this fall, and I couldn't imagine my life without it.  I've definitely had my ups and downs, and have felt burnt out more than a few times, but I always come back with more energy and psych.

My biggest defeat is definitely my affinity to injury.  I try not to think about where I could be right now If I never had any injuries, but it's hard to do.  I've had two major ankle surgeries, the most recent of which was 3 years go, and I was only able to start to really trust it while climbing earlier this year.  Name a joint, and I've had issues with it.  Last year I joined the Calgary Climbing Centre's Adult Team, and was really fortunate to have the support of physiotherapist Lea Juszkiewicz.  She has a movement-based philosophy that has really worked well for me, and has helped keep me on the wall.

Any last words?


I'm super excited for what this season will bring - stay tuned for photos and stories!

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photographer: Benn Edwards