Well we’re right in the middle of a snowy winter here in
Squamish. Skiers are loving it, rock climbers and boulderers not so much. Anyways here is a
round up of some of the things that have been going on so far this winter with
our athletes.
Jason Kehl repeats "The Shield"
Jason made the second ascent of The Shield in the southern sandstone
area of Little Rock City in Tennessee. This boulder problem was put up by Tony
Lamiche and Jason describes it as one of the best lines he's ever seen,
which coming from a man who has traveled and climbed so much is quite
something.
Jason Kehl on the Shield - photo courtesy of Cryptochild
Sean and Jason McColl's Bishop trip..
Sean and Jason spent 3 weeks or so over in Bishop California where
although had mixed weather came away with some impressive sends. Of
particular note, Sean sent "The Mandala
SDS" (V14), "Goldfish Trombone" (V14),
"Direction" (V13), "the Asset" (V13), "True North" (V13) FA, "the
Oracle" (V13)" FA, "Bubba Lobotomy", "Kill on Sight - FA", "The
Mystery", "Xavier’s
Roof" and "Michael Caine SS" all V12.
With his bouldering and sport climbing performances this year, Sean's
has shown he is one of the strongest climbers in North America.
His brother Jason also had a good trip and sent amongst others "Cholos" (V9), "Center
Direct" (V10), and "Dance the Night Away" (V10).
Sean climbing "the Mandala" - photo Terry McColl
Jason climbing "Center Direct" - photo Terry McColl
Josh Haynes raising his standard in Hueco
Josh
Haynes had his most successful trip to Hueco yet, with sends of Flamingon
(V13), Nagual (V13) and Esperanza (V14).
Josh Haynes on Esperanza - photo Josh Haynes collection
He
was also given directions to a new bouldering area in Mexico which was described as being like Hueco but bigger (and free to explore). He went and checked it out in
December but initial impressions were a lot of rock but of dubious quality. Josh
is heading back though in February for a second opinion and hoping to film the trip
so it’ll be interesting to see what he comes back with.
Bozeman & Canmore Ice Festivals
Jen Olson attended two ice festival events over November and December
Jen Olson on the ice - photo Olson collection
First off the Bozeman Ice Festival
in Hylite canyon between Nov.29 and Dec.2, 2007. Participating in an invitational comp with 6 mens teams and
3 womens teams the format was from 7 am to 4 pm climb as much as possible, with
5 -60 min walk/run between routes. The most routes done during that time was 13
by the top men's team, and Jen and her team mate Sarah Hueniken completed 9
routes ranging from M6 to WI4+
placing them first for the women.
The following day Jen and Sarah taught a women's ice climbing clinic with 47
participants, 5 guides and 5 helpers. In Jen’s words “Women of all abilities
hung out together in an empowering environment swapping what works and what
doesn't from ear warmers, long undies to swinging a hammer and kicking your
crampons. The comps, clinics coupled with lots of slideshows, free beer and
pizza made for a successful event.”
A week later Jen attended the Canmore Ice Festival
in Alberta
between Dec. 7-9, 2007 from which
she told us..
“We taught a women's ice climbing clinic in Haffner creek on
Friday the 7th to some advanced women. Sarah Hueniken, Shelly Huisman and I
were the guides and there were 6 skilled women bearing the COLD. Likely -30 in
the canyon so we were rubbing feet in between the bold climbing on brittle ice.
We even managed a couple mixed routes although it was too cold for most to try.
Saturday
I helped to belay the intermediate mixed comp at the wall. The wall is a 4
story scaffolding covered in ice with 2 mixed lines (plastic holds on plywood)
on it. What a great venue for learning steep ice climbing. Rumor has it they
may keep it up this winter. (contact yamnuska for details). There
was a fantastic turnout despite -15 temps and great enthusiasm. Sunday was a speed
comp but by then I was on my way back to Kamloops.”
