Aug 2006
Well I just returned from Europe where I spent two weeks coaching the Canadian Junior National Team and another week climbing around in Ceuse and Arco.
Coaching the junior team is always a mixed experience, some kids do great and some are disappointed with their results. We had two amazing results from Sean McColl and Katie Mah, Sean by winning both speed and difficulty and Katie by placing third in the Youth B (14-15) girls category. Unfortunately that didn't provide much time for my own climbing or training so I needed to get away.
First stop was Ceuse. After arriving at 4am I was up by 9:30 and charging up the trail. That was pretty much it for me, I only did a few routes and then hiked back down. I was in Ceuse for three days and didn't do anything new, just enjoyed the sun and the views.
Next up was Arco, Italy where I went to watch Sean McColl compete at the RockMaster invitational competition. I managed to climb three days in a row, two at Massone and one at Belvedere. The competition itself and atmosphere was awesome. Over a thousand people watching the best competition climbers in the world on some great routes.
Now back in North America and preparing for a big road trip starting in October.
July 2006
This past weekend found me once again routesetting for the Canadian Junior Championships. Multiple nights up 'til 3am twisting wrenches and getting a killer workout. My body feels wrecked! All it all it went really well and I'm psyched for the team Canada has assembled for the World Championships. Off to the Bow Valley to climb for the next week before preparing for a move at the end of July.
Mike
June 2006
Well, my spring was incredibly busy at work. I logged over 260 hours in March and over 230 in both April and May! All that work did buy me a bit of flexibility that I hope to use this summer.
I did manage to get away for a few days down to Maple Canyon in June to hang out with some friends from Vancouver. While there I managed to do a couple 14a routes; one second try and the other third try. I was disappointed I didn't redpoint this route called 'T-Rex', a route that is arguable the longest, steepest single pitch route in North America. But when you only have three days of climbing you tend to get pretty tired on that steep terrain.
As some of you may know I am planning on leaving on a huge worldwide climbing trip this fall. My girlfriend and I are going to start in North America, then head to Australia next spring, maybe hit South Africa and hopefully be in Europe next fall. This summer I hope to hit a few areas I haven't been to in awhile and probably won't get to for the next few years. I'm planning on climbing in the Bow Valley sometime in July and hitting Rifle in August. I also signed up to coach the national junior team again this year which means I'll be travelling to Austria to coach at the Youth World Championships in Imst.
Who knows? I might even find some time to climb in Squamish (I hope).
january 05
Over christmas I went up to Big White to hang out with my family. First time in a couple years that we have been together and it was awesome. 1.5' of new powder on christmas day and sunshine on boxing day. On the 27th I was getting in a serious ab workout from a little (big) bing on the night before.
For new years I ended up going to Whistler to hang out with a girl I met down in Smith Rocks, who knows there may be more on this. Stay tuned. Pamela Anderson was at the same new years party I went to, she's looking old. Of course she had just been crying and creating a scene in the girls bathroom. Apparently. I didn't go in there. Not too exciting but makes for a good story to tell the boys. Weather was gorgeous, did some snowboarding and was going to boulder in Squamish but it was a little chilly.
Last weekend I flew up to Edmonton to compete in a tour de bloc. Didn't climb too well but had fun. It was good to see that crew again.
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february 05
Well the last few weekends have been occupied with indoor climbing activities. I routeset for a tour de bloc comp in Richmond which was tons of fun. The gym has several new bouldering angles and holds so we could be creative. The following weekend I was out in Maple Ridge setting for a fun event that is held every year out there. That was crazy, I think I set 15-20 problems in about 10 hours, then had to run all the problems in the comp from V0-V10. My skin, elbows and muscles were thrashed.
On the first weekend in February I was asked to give a technique clinic at the University of Washington in Seattle. I ended up doing an intro technique course and an advanced bouldering technique course which was tons of fun for me and the participants. That was on the saturday and on the sunday I did an informal clinic with some friends in seattle (and my girlfriend, remember I told you to stay tuned). Just watching them climb, giving them pointers and reviewing their climbs on video. And of course the superbowl. I'll be honest I wanted philly to win.
Work's been super busy but I've managed to get a few hours here and there to climb. Heading to smith rock this weekend which should be a good time. Outdoor season here I come!!!
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Where/When were you born?
I was born in Kamloops, BC, Canada on Septermber 18, 1977
Current Home?
Vancouver, BC
Started Climbing When/Where?
I started climbing through a program in High School in Kelowna, BC in 1993.
What is your favorite climbing area and why?
So far my favorite climbing area is Ceuse in France. The atmosphere was incredible, the hike, the views and the quality of climbs just blew me away. Unfortunately I was only there for two weeks. Second choice is probably Smith Rocks because of the history and the difficulty of the climbing. I have also been to and enjoyed Rifle, Red River Gorge, El Potrero Chico, Squamish and Horne Lake.
What is you favorite route of all time and why?
My favorite route of all time is a 5.13a at Horne Lake near Nanaimo BC. The route is called Save the Pushers and is a gorgeous route that climbs out a steep section of the cave. The route is very long and pumpy with some of the coolest moves on it. Kneebars, pockets, tufas, big holds, small holds, toe hooks, heel hooks you name it.
What is your favorite bouldering area?
I’ve only bouldered in Squamish, Bishop and Fontainbleau but I have to say the Fontainbleau was a blast. The rocks are so incredible looking with nice sand landings and amazing features. What more could you want from bouldering?
What is your favorite boulder problem?
Jedi Mind Tricks in Bishop was tons of fun so is Worm World Low in Squamish, but for my favorite/most satisfying would be The Egg in Squamish. I had to make up some magic beta to send that thing.
What do you do to train?
I climb about four times a week and depending on the time of year my schedule is different. In the sping and summer I try to climb outside 2-3 days of the week and indoor once but with time constraints I find it easier to get a good workout indoors that way I’ll be stronger for me the next road trip, and we all enjoy road trips when we are climbing strong.
What do you do to relax?
Relax????? What’s that???? Away from pushing myself at climbing I might go do a day of trad climbing or play hockey, ultimate or go surfing to relax. Every so often I enjoy vegging out and watching a movie or a hockey game. I usually find that after spending 9-10 hours a day in front of a computer I don’t want to relax.
Going out to dinner with Friends – Where and why?
With a group of friends either a nice thai restaurant or all you can eat sushi. Why? I absolutely love thai food and ummm ALL YOU CAN EAT SUSHI. What more needs to be said?
You just won a million dollars – what would you do?
Road trip baby!!! There are too many climbing areas in this world to just sit around wasting time! I don’t think I would spend too much, but I would definitely travel for awhile. I would look at investing opportunities and try to make the money last.
Current Car
1999 Black Toyota Tacoma 4x4 with a canopy and bed in the back. Great road trip vehicle for 1-2 people.
Dream Car
BMW M5 – always loved the look of that car.
Favorite Films?
Ask anyone who knows me and they tell you I love Top Gun. While I can almost quote the entire movie I actually don’t think it is that great of a movie. I like movies that are set in history, not “Present Day, Indian Ocean”. I really liked both “Saving Private Ryan” and “Enemy at the Gate”. I find it hard to imagine having to endure such an event. “American History X”, “Fight Club” and of course “Finding Nemo” are up there as well.
Favorite Books?
I go in phases with respect to my favorite books. Where I am, how much time I have and how willing I am to have to sit down and think will all affect the book that I pick up. I went through a Michael Creighton faze, a Dean Koontz faze, and I really like to read books like “A brief history in time”, or “Fermat’s Enigma” where you have to think about it even when you are not reading it. I’m also unfortunately addicted to Stephen King’s Dark Tower series and have pre-ordered the last two books.
Secret to success?
This implies that I have had success… I’ll take that. I would have to say that the reason I climb as much as I do is because I love it. I love the movement, the feeling of pushing yourself, the sense of accomplishment (though short lived) and the constant craving of “What’s next?”. I also tend to analyze what I am doing a lot. This helps in a sport like climbing where you can try the same move over and over until you find the easiest way to do it. Then you move to the next move, eventually you start combining these moves and then end up with the easiest way to do a route. Watch other people and learn from their styles. Try lots of different things, I recently found a rest on a route where I had my right knee on my left ankle and my left foot on a small foot hold. It was almost a no hands rest.
Who are your heroes/role models?
In this sport there are lots of people to consider heroes. I feel that anyone who has been climbing for numerous years and is still pushing themselves and the limits are the people I respect the most. There are lots of young climbers coming out of the gyms systems that climb super well and may be the best but I still respect the 40 year old climber who has been climbing at the top level of the sport for the past 10 - 15 years or more. People like Lynn Hill and Peter Croft who just seem to climb because it is what they do.
Favorite Links
I check www.8a.nu for climbing news, rockclimbing.com for area information and gripped.com for chatting with other Canadian climbers.
